The trip to Devon (below) was a couple of months ago, and we feel we’ve earned a ‘real’ holiday! In the end the Devon escapade did help and we decided that we would persevere in the quest to buy and live in France. That’s if we ever sell Garth View. Two parties have ‘expressed an interest’ but without making an offer – they’re waiting for funds, apparently.

In what way have we ‘earned’ a holiday? Well, we’ve made considerable changes at both Murton View (MV) and Garth View (GV). The kitchen was removed from MV:

And a new one delivered:

We removed the carpet from the living room at MV (the carpet fitters said it wasn’t worth moving; Carol said it was so we did it ourselves) and Carol discovered new skills in carpet laying, first fitting underlay and gripper rods in the guest room (at GV) – which she had painted by then – and finally fitting the ‘not worth moving’ carpet. Well, it may not be perfect, but it’s a great improvement on what w
as there before!

Meanwhile, the new kitchen was installed at MV, and we think it will make the flat an even more attractive prospect to possible tennants.

(Tiling still to do)

We disposed of all the packaging ourselves

– it’s surprising how much you get into the back of that little car (the C1) – involving several trips to the tip to save the fees and costs of getting the installers to dispose of it (private vehicles access the tip for free, vans have to pay).

Back at GV we moved all the furniture out of ‘our’ bedroom and put it all (except one item) into the newly-carpeted and decorated former guest room:

First the wardrobe:

Then the tallboy (would it fit? Yes it would!)

The bed takes shape:

The one remaining item:

‘What?’ We hear (some of) you cry: ‘What? We thought you were going to France?!’ 

Well, we’re wavering …. and despite what may or may not have been said as we paid a last visit to 66 Beaulieu Avenue last Monday evening (Philip’s moving, too) no decision has been taken. The weak pound, French inheritance laws and changing family circumstances are all making us think it out again – ‘reviewing the situation’, so to speak.

So we gave up on kitchens and carpets and gas men and painting, packed Harry up, hooked Sally (the little red car) on and left Sunny Cumbria mid-afternoon on Friday 15th July, and after spending a satisfactory night in a lay-by near Stoke we got to Langstone Manor Caravan Park near Tavistock on Saturday afternoon just in time to get the awning up before the serious rain started:

The rainbow seen thru the awning window: 

Harry and Little Sally brace themselves for four days’ drizzle! – Just like being at home!    

In a way, we didn’t mind the weather too much, because it meant we didn’t resent the time spent looking at houses. There was one fine day – Thursday – which, unfortunately, was the busiest for viewings. We saw 15 properties in four days then another one on Friday. Outstanding were the Blacksmith’s in Paignton – a house full of quirks and character, with a roof terrace, but although there was space where Harry could have stood, the manoeuvre to get him there would have been impossible – and the last one which was a real pigsty – but beautifully converted!

We crossed the Tamar ‘land to land’ several times, usually by bridges, but once by a ferry:

Which took us to Torpoint where one of the houses had this marvellous view at the front, just over the road:

But unfortunately the house needed too much work and, again, presented an impossible manoeuvre to park Harry up.

We made our way to the coast  at Portwrinkle:

and sat and pondered the pros and cons:

before treating ourselves to an excellent evening meal at the pub in the Hamlet of St. John’s:

We left Tavistock as the weather improved (!) and returned via London, South and North, to visit Brothers and pick up a chair (as you do), returning to Garth View on Wednesday, only to find that the dental appointment I had on Thursday morning, which we had regarded as a fixed point for the end of the trip, had been cancelled – by letter! – the day after we left!!!

As we say at the top, no decision taken, but it is clear that even with the weak pound, we would get a much nicer property for the same money in France:

 but there are the other considerations, and as long as we have Harry and the ability to drive him, we can go to France and other places as often as we like and for as long as we like. Meanwhile, there’s no point in dwelling (!) on it till someone decides they want to buy Garth View!

‘What?’ We hear (some of) you cry: ‘What? We thought you were going to France?!’ 

Well, we’re wavering …. and despite what may or may not have been said as we paid a last visit to 66 Beaulieu Avenue last Monday evening (Philip’s moving, too) no decision has been taken. The weak pound, French inheritance laws and changing family circumstances are all making us think it out again – ‘reviewing the situation’, so to speak.

So we gave up on kitchens and carpets and gas men and painting, packed Harry up, hooked Sally (the little red car) on and left Sunny Cumbria mid-afternoon on Friday 15th July, and after spending a satisfactory night in a lay-by near Stoke we got to Langstone Manor Caravan Park near Tavistock on Saturday afternoon just in time to get the awning up before the serious rain started:

The rainbow seen thru the awning window: 

Harry and Little Sally brace themselves for four days’ drizzle! – Just like being at home!    

In a way, we didn’t mind the weather too much, because it meant we didn’t resent the time spent looking at houses. There was one fine day – Thursday – which, unfortunately, was the busiest for viewings. We saw 15 properties in four days then another one on Friday. Outstanding were the Blacksmith’s in Paignton – a house full of quirks and character, with a roof terrace, but although there was space where Harry could have stood, the manoeuvre to get him there would have been impossible – and the last one which was a real pigsty – but beautifully converted!

We crossed the Tamar ‘land to land’ several times, usually by bridges, but once by a ferry:

Which took us to Torpoint where one of the houses had this marvellous view at the front, just over the road:

But unfortunately the house needed too much work and, again, presented an impossible manoeuvre to park Harry up.

We made our way to the coast  at Portwrinkle:

and sat and pondered the pros and cons:

before treating ourselves to an excellent evening meal at the pub in the Hamlet of St. John’s:

We left Tavistock as the weather improved (!) and returned via London, South and North, to visit Brothers and pick up a chair (as you do), returning to Garth View on Wednesday, only to find that the dental appointment I had on Thursday morning, which we had regarded as a fixed point for the end of the trip, had been cancelled – by letter! – the day after we left!!!

As we say at the top, no decision taken, but it is clear that even with the weak pound, we would get a much nicer property for the same money in France:

 but there are the other considerations, and as long as we have Harry and the ability to drive him, we can go to France and other places as often as we like and for as long as we like. Meanwhile, there’s no point in dwelling (!) on it till someone decides they want to buy Garth View!

Between taking possession of 14, Murton View, Appleby, and having a ‘Mini Moving Day’ we attended to a few jobs:

Carol got down to painting the skirting board in the bedroom

And then in the conservatory:  

  How’s that,then?

Meanwhile, SKT tries to get information from British Gas about electricity supply and the possibility of having the gas connected. (That cardigan’s famous!)

Newly-washed curtains are re-hung in the living room:

 Saturday 25th June  The ‘team’ arrived on Friday (Chris first, who made his own way to Murton View from Appleby station and frightened me by appearing at the back gate while I was mowing the grass! Followed later by Rachel and Dan, who went straight to Bolton (Garth View)), where everyone was treated to a traditional Cumbrian Supper.

At 9am on Saturday Carol drove me to nearby Temple Sowerby to collect the van for the day – a nearly-new Fiat ‘transit equivalent’:

The van is parked up and ready: 

The team get organised:

Chris tries to understand the list of what’s to go and what’s to stay:

Nice one of Skippy! (The cat)

Rachel hard at it in the van:

(She was, really!)

Chris, you’d do better if you could see where you were going!

Yes, that way!

Put it away! – That might have been a nice photo.

First run to Appleby – ” ‘scuse me, Officer, have you seen Murton?”

That stool looks like hard work for two!

“So I’m doing this washing machine on my own, am I?”

Back at Garth View, Dan has dismantled the bunk and brought it downstairs:

Lunch is prepared:

Thanks, Carol!

And enjoyed al fresco (The weather remained helpfully dry, but not too hot – the heat came next day.)

Chris had to be at Appleby station by 3pm – but why take his picture when there’s a chuffer to snap?

While Dad was at the station, Rachel and Dan had the bunk to deal with; before:

And after:

Take a break! – View Murton; where IS it, exactly?

Things are taking shape – there’s a desk and display shelves against the wall between the kitchen and the bedroom:

And a dining suite instead of boxes under the window  in the living room! Where did THAT come from? (A new neighbour in Bolton, actually.)

REAL furniture has replaced the picnic set in the conservatory (not a matching conservatory suite, but never mind!): 

Back at Garth View, suposedly ‘decluttered’ by this process, things seem to look worse than ever!

Although we haven’t seen much of that panelling since the day I ‘discovered’ it:

We ‘christened’ the flat (again) with some bubbles from Limoux, followed by a Chinese take-away from just down the road, but we came back to Garth View to sleep, having returned the van. Rachel and Dan left early Sunday morning.

So thanks to the team, without whom we’d have struggled, thanks to Michelle and Sean for ‘sparing’ their husband / fiancee, and thanks to new arrivals, Malc and Kathy, for the dining suite and the washing machine. 

We’re going to put in a new kitchen, and we’re trying to find out how much it would cost to have gas installed – gas is there at the property, but it’s never been connected. We had a ‘surprise’ viewing of Garth View just before going to Appleby on Friday afternoon to meet Chris (and cut the grass) – a couple were walking by as we were getting in the car and they seemed to be taking an interest. We weren’t prepared for a ‘showing’ but we weren’t going to miss an opportunity, either, so we gave them a quick tour. You never know …. 

Tuesday 14th June: We treated ourselves to a day out with Harry, since the weather was forecast to be fine. First I had to see the doctor to check that all was well after the operation three weeks ago on the soft palate; still inflamed, he said, but healing OK. It’s certainly feeling better.

Then we picknicked at Legburthwaite (Southern end of St. John’s) and drove on to Coniston, intending to ride – or sail – on the Gondola, the restored steam yacht, which Carol had never done. We nearly boarded one of the ‘ordinary’ launches by mistake, which really would not have been the same experience!  (See further pictures, especially the interior, here: http://www.visitcumbria.com/amb/coniston-steam-yacht-gondola.htm  )      

The sky and the lake were beautifully blue, at least to begin with, as we chugged past Coniston Hall, where Rachel and I first experienced camping, and then across to Brantwood, the one-time home of John Ruskin.

There were several smaller steamboats out on the lake, making the most of the weather.

Fly the flag!

After the excursion we allowed ourselves ‘Kaffee und Kuchen’ at the Bluebird Cafe (as you do – at least it wasn’t Sk*****th!)

Thursday 16th June: At last the welcome news that the purchase of 14 Murton View had been completed. (Of course, an offer to buy Garth View would be even better news!) Into Penrith to collect the keys, and then to Appleby to inspect. It’s been left nicely clean and fresh, and we celebrated our possession with a few ‘bubbles’, sitting on picnic furniture in the conservatory and still wondering where Murton is!            

 A6 SKT occupies the allocated parking space.    

The large sycamore tree is just outside our property; apparently, it’s listed so must be treated with respect, but potentially threatening branches have been removed.  

Carol makes some notes in the empty living room.   

The kitchen units – make do or complete re-fit?

Well, blovu min malsupren! You try for years to get on a certain radio programme, then you get on twice in one week! Having discussed language learning on Monday, Five-Live were ‘doing’ driving on Wednesday. I phoned in with my fourpennyworth without expecting to be called back, but, after a very long hanging-on period after they did call me, I had a few words at about 54 mins 50.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b0110gjq/5_live_Breakfast_Your_Call_Bad_Driving/

More about driving ‘next door’.  www.tomkeith.posterous.com  no password needed.

Without wanting to come across as too negative, nevertheless we have met a couple of setbacks. Last Tuesday (3rd May) was a ‘good news / bad news’ day. It began with what appeared to be a ‘nibble’ regarding the sale of Garth View, in that someone who had viewed the house 2 months ago had been back to the agent showing interest again. In fact, the question was ‘what’s the least we would take?’ Well, at least it was a bit hopeful.

But then later in the day, and completely unexpectedly, we heard from the Cumberland Building Society that our mortgage (for the purchase of Murton View) had been refused! Since then, we’ve been able to make a second application through a broker recommended by the agent, and we now wait and see. There’s also been no further word from the enquirer about Garth View.

To brighten things a bit, earlier in the year we had a hard standing made inside the big garden gates – we had to do something; Harry was starting to dig himself in! 

And we’ve had the outside of the house painted, in the hope of giving it more ‘kerb-appeal’.

 Yesterday I had another opportunity to get on national radio – not that the last effort did any good, did it? – Five-Live were discussing language learning, so I had a go on behalf of Esperanto. Here’s the link:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b0110dtb/5_live_Breakfast_Your_Call_09_05_2011

the programme is quite interesting but I come on about 39 minutes in. 

Because some people don’t want opinions / rants / diatribes on this site, I’ve set up a parallel one, which one or two had a look at when I developed the AV argument. More about language learning and Esperanto there!

www.tomkeith.posterous.com 

Yes, I had a rant on ‘Any Answers’ today (Saturday 23rd April) and if you really can’t resist it, use your i-player, or find the programme here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b010k2fg/Any_Answers_23_04_2011/ . I come on after about 4m10secs. Why should I care? I’m emigrating (we hope) to a country where they already have a form of PR, and go to vote 2 weeks running – on Sundays!

So when we got back from France on December 18th to find Garth View looking just like it did a year earlier:

after enjoying Christmas at Rachel’s we set about getting Garth View on the market. It was offered for sale on Friday 11th February and we had a viewing almost at once. There have been about half a dozen viewings since then, but, frustratingly, no offers.

We began looking for a small place to buy not too far away; partly because it seemed that if there were less ‘stuff’ in the house (= clutter) it might sell more easily and partly because we had said we wanted to keep a little ‘toe-hold’ in Cumbria, though we had dropped this idea once we were in France in the autumn. Well, we’ve come back to it. We viewed about 10 properties locally – well, within an hour’s drive – and settled on a ground-floor 1 bedroomed flat in Appleby. We made an offer which was accepted and things are going ahead. No. 14, Murton View:  

Not special at the front – but the two grey cars are on parking allocated to no. 14.

Living room – currently containing 2 settees, so comfortably sized.

Kitchen – we’ll probably replace the units before letting the flat.

Bedroom – it’s a bedroom! 

And the conservatory – with the views, this is what attracted us.

So that’s Appleby – where’s Murton?

Not another baby hedgehog??!

Little terraced garden, and looking the other way:

From the conservatory window, the skyine is High Cup Nick. (Bin up there!)

Once the scaffolding etc. is removed, that might be quite a good view of Appleby castle!

Looking through the living room into the conservatory.

So – we’ll be leaving it unoccupied, but adequately furnished, when we go to France (When? – IF we get away this year!) until we come back for the wedding in November. At that point we shall have to decide what type of letting we’re going to offer it as – long term or holidays. Till then, if family and friends want to use it for a week or a weekend away (Lake District, Yorkshire Dales, Ingleton (waterfalls), Skipton, Settle & Carlisle Railway, Teesdale, Hadrian’s Wall …..) feel free – we’ll be pleased to think there’s someone there some of the time.

Enough for now – I might post some pictures of changes to Garth View another time, but this was Murton View’s piece!

Harry’s just been to Eastbourne for the British Esperanto Congress (April 7th-9th). No photos, partly because my camera’s being ‘looked at’ with a view to repair / replace.

My contribution to the congress was to sing three songs on the Saturday evening, including, for the first time, ‘The First Lord’s Song’ from H.M.S. Pinafore in Esperanto. No photos of that, so here’s the Duke of Plaza-Toro instead: 

Windows Live Spaces (‘My Space’) isn’t available any more, and I didn’t like WordPress, so I’m trying this. Here’s Harry:  

   and Harry with Sally on the way north through France:

How Harry (and the ‘Toad’) came home …

We had a day off from travelling on Monday 13th December, which let Carol catch up on the washing, using the Crystal Palace site’s facilities, then mid-afternoon we hopped on a no 3 bus, waving our travel passes at the driver and paying nothing, and went by some strange route to Trafalgar Square. Philip and Christine had suggested we join them to see ‘Yes, Prime Minister’ on stage, and Philip was waiting for us at the agreed restaurant where Carol jnr joined us shortly. At the end of the meal we were told that the play was to be a Christmas present from P. & C. and Carol provided the meal on the same basis, so – many thanks! Christine joined us at the theatre (The Gielgud, formerly The Globe, where Edith Evans had issues with ‘A HANDBAG’ and John Gielgud created the role of Sebastien in ‘Nude With Violin’ – one of ‘my’ roles!). The play was great fun, and afterwards Philip joined us for the bus ride back to Crystal Palace.

Tuesday 14th, back on the road just before midday, but only to go round London to Welwyn Garden City and another Caravan Club site. In fact we didn’t spend the night there Tues-Weds because Chrys and Jan were expecting us to stay with them. Very nice, thank you. We had a good Chinese meal, but I was beginning to cough in a worrying way.

Wednesday, another non-travelling day, and that cough getting worse; was it bronchitis caught from Nour a week ago in Poitiers? Daniel had had a cold, too. Welwyn and Potters Bar are only minutes apart, so a visit to the site to get ‘things’ was no problem, then it was an evening meal with Martyn and Jasmine. (Chrys and Martyn are Carol’s brothers for those not familiar with their names.) We showed photos of the trip – and the house in Sournia – then went back to the van for the night as we wanted a good getaway on Thursday in the hope of getting home before the worst of the weather made it difficult or dangerous. But I really wasn’t well and Carol wanted to postpone travelling for another day. I said ‘I’ll get get us home – Harry and me will get us home.’ Actually, that was a bit arrogant, ‘cos Carol did two hours of the driving, – and through some of the worst of the weather.

One more lose end: we called on the man who makes the A-frames for towing the little cars. He explained to me what was happening with the brakes and why (which I can’t repeat, not really understanding it!)and that there was nothing wrong and we probably hadn’t been towing the car with it’s brakes on – we’d have felt it. It’s just something that can happen when stopping depending on whether it’s uphill/downhill and the smoothness of the stop. The only problem if a gentle roll forward didn’t solve the matter would be draining the car’s battery if the brake lights were on all night, so disconnect the brake cable till ready to move again. Hmmm …  didn’t we try that and find we couldn’t reconnect it? We’ll see.

Back on the road we had some difficulty getting out of Solihull – TomTom wasn’t helping, apparently wanting us to go through the middle of Birmingham, but we followed signs to the NEC and the airport, which, of course,linked us to the M40 and M6. We did go through some rain and snow, but the threatened disruption to our journey never materialised, even the road over Shap was clear, though with snow on the hills around us. So at about 7.40pm after 10 travelling days and 5 ‘rest’ days and a distance of 2,197 kms (1,373 miles) Harry pulled up outside Garth View – and Sally’s brake lights were NOT stuck on!

A few ‘footnotes’: trip stats – Garth View to Garth View (in ‘Harry’) 4,647 kms (2,904 miles). (Additional distance in the car not recorded). ‘The Journey Home’ – 15 days overall, of which 10 were travelling days. Average daily distance, 219.7 kms / 137.3 m. Average travelling speed 40kph / 25mph (including stops) Slow, aren’t we?

Weather: the decision to travel on Thursday was a good one. Overnight Friday-Saturday reports said that hundreds of drivers and vehicles were stranded for hours on the M6 northbound in Lancashire as the snow, a jack-knifed lorry and minor accidents brought the usual chaos. I was still quite unwell, though, and didn’t do any unpacking or anything till Saturday. Better now, thank you; no flowers, please.

Bolton now looks just like it did a year ago! Fortunately, we have pictures of it (Carol’s)

Loose ends: Way back in June or July, after our visit to Somerset (and encounter with MONDEO-MAN!) I offered a prize to the first guest who could tell us what SDJR stands for. Chrys E. got it right ‘Somerset and Dorset Joint Railway’, and this week he got his prize: OK – it wasn’t a ‘railway themed prize’, so I tell lies sometimes. Perhaps Chrys is happier with a big Toblerone than he would have been with a Stationmaster’s hat!

What was I looking at on the lawn in the garden of the bungalow on the ‘Marais’? A baby hedgehog!

And the spaghetti server in the shower? Well, the shower was very little in use, so hot water took a long time to come through. It was push-button operated, so the problem was how to push AND HOLD the button long enough for the water to run hot without putting yourself in line for a (freezing) cold shower first? Answer – an arm extension. That’s what I used it for!

Thanks for being with us, so to speak, for these weeks, if you have, or for taking the time to look in as a bit of post-Christmas reading. Harry wont be travelling much for a month or two now, and if I blog again I’ll have to find a new programme. So – FESTIVE GREETINGS to one and all and we’ll see what the New Year brings ..

                                                                                                                     HARRY SALLYMAS!

How we came full circle (almost)

We left France looking grey and drizzly (France, not us), crossing a Channel described as ‘choppy’. No matter, it wasn’t bad. We were worried that Sally’s brake lights had been on throughout the crossing, but the vehicles moved freely at Dover and a check at Maidstone services showed problem resolved by itself. Not right, though. Back in England, we began to look for what was good about being in the UK: cat’s eyes – I hadn’t realised how they’d been missing in  France till I saw them again;  helpful headlight flashes from lorry drivers to let me know it was safe to return to lane one after an overtake; believe it or not, most British drivers DO signal correctly at roundabouts! (Fro … French don’t understand them); NOT being tailgated ALL the time; and toilets! Public loos in France (if you can find any) are a national disgrace.

However, to be fair to French drivers, no-one over there did anything as daft as the idiot who attempted a nearside ‘undertake’, in spite of my left signal, as I swung wide to make the turn into the Crystal Palace campsite! It was a near miss – fortunately, if there had been a crunch-up (turn the other cheek?), two pedestrians who were waiting for me to make the turn would have been excellent witnesses.

Once parked up we went down the hill to meet Philip and Christine for a meal – which, as friends who have followed us all the way will remember, was how we spent the last day before crossing the Channel on the outward journey (October 17th).

How we came full circle (almost)

We left France looking grey and drizzly (France, not us), crossing a Channel described as ‘choppy’. No matter, it wasn’t bad. We were worried that Sally’s brake lights had been on throughout the crossing, but the vehicles moved freely at Dover and a check at Maidstone services showed problem resolved by itself. Not right, though. Back in England, we began to look for what was good about being in the UK: cat’s eyes – I hadn’t realised how they’d been missing in  France till I saw them again;  helpful headlight flashes from lorry drivers to let me know it was safe to return to lane one after an overtake; believe it or not, most British drivers DO signal correctly at roundabouts! (Fro … French don’t understand them); NOT being tailgated ALL the time; and toilets! Public loos in France (if you can find any) are a national disgrace.

However, to be fair to French drivers, no-one over there did anything as daft as the idiot who attempted a nearside ‘undertake’, in spite of my left signal, as I swung wide to make the turn into the Crystal Palace campsite! It was a near miss – fortunately, if there had been a crunch-up (turn the other cheek?), two pedestrians who were waiting for me to make the turn would have been excellent witnesses.

Once parked up we went down the hill to meet Philip and Christine for a meal – which, as friends who have followed us all the way will remember, was how we spent the last day before crossing the Channel on the outward journey (October 17th).

How we met an old friend who took us in for the night and how the Michelin guide let us down for the first time.

That night on the ‘aire’ at Le Mans was OK but NOISY! At 5am there was a mass exodus from the lorry park, which had been full to overflowing, and the through lane ran just past our spot. That went on for about 15 minutes, then repeated itself at 6am! By 7.15 the park was almost deserted! The congestion of last night had resolved itself and we travelled on through some nice snowy scenery towards Rouen.

          

However, we made a BAD mistake in choosing our lunch spot! Nice lay-by, off the road, snowscape all around, but ICY, and with an uphill exit. Harry couldn’t do it while towing. We had lunch anyway, blocking the lay-by against anyone who wanted to drive through, then discussed options. We decided to uncouple and drive separately to a suitable spot to re-couple. Shouldn’t have been too hard. BUT with the angle the two vehicles had finished at when Harry went into a spin and the uphill gradient, the tension on the bolts was such that we had great difficulty in removing them. A combination of brute force (we’re not good at that!), WD40 and some lateral thinking in the use of a tent peg eventually won through!

We had telephoned Daniel, the French Colleague who had organised the Penrith/Rouen exchange with me, and offered to take him out to dinner (we’ve enjoyed his hospitality twice before, so we used the difficulty of getting both vehicles to his house and away again without reversing as a lever to insist that it was our ‘do’). We met on a supermarket car park and gave him drinks and nibbles before going to the restaurant where we had an excellent meal, during which he suggested we could, if we thought it OK, park the vehicles, coupled, on a space near the Town Hall in Ymarre (where he lives) and spend the night with him. The space was used by lorries, so manoeuvering should be OK. That seemed like a good idea, and it was.

After breakfast (Saturday 11th December) Daniel drove us back to the Town Hall where Harry & Sally were waiting, patiently and securely, and we carried on through a drizzly Rouen towards the coast. We phoned several caravan parks supposedly open all year, but none replied. We got to the gates of one of them – locked and closed since mid-October. This was the first time our new Michelin guide had let us down with inaccurate information! We joined the motorway. One of our maps showed a service area just before Calais with facilities for motorhomes. We got there; no facilities in sight. We drove on beyond Calais (where we are to sail from tomorrow) and found a layby/aire with a convenient parking area. There are some lorries, but not so many as are likely to disturb us as they did two nights ago. We’ve had a good supper of ‘Harry’s Lamb Casserole’ and here we are …

Or there we were this morning (Sun 12th). Now we are once more at McDonald’s, but in Calais, and have just sent the previous entry to this one. It’s time to go to the ferry terminal, and, for now, to say “Au Revoir, La Belle France” …

(Though, we do admit, we’ve seen it looking ‘beller’!)

How we got back to Poitiers and how we enjoyed two night’s ‘Pasporta Servo’-style hospitality while Harry got a new ‘cheek’. 

So there we were, stuck on the ice, outside the reception and toilet block at Chateauponsac…. but there was no hurry to get away on Sunday morning (5th Dec.), so there was no hurry to get up, either, and the cab radio had just begun to receive Radio 4 on  Long Wave at certain times of day …. which means CRICKET some of the time. (Why is it beyond the wit of the BBC to broadcast that game – and others – to those who want it without depriving loyal listeners of their regular listening? Thousands have complained about it over the years and I’ve asked that question, but never had an answer.) The night hadn’t been as cold as might have been expected, and when I put my nose outside at about 9 o’clock, I said ‘It’s thawing!’ After breakfast the walk to that warm bathroom, which last night had been on crunchy snow and ice, was over much less thick, wet snow and some of the ice was turning to slush. But in front of Harry there was still a section of compacted snow and ice on the slight uphill. We took our time…. It began to rain! (Friends who’ve followed us from the start will know that we were a bit FED UP of rain a few weeks ago – actually, we are again! (and Cherbourg is seriously flooded) but for once that was just what we wanted!

‘By the time we’re ready, I think he’ll do it’ I said, optimistically. Carol wasn’t sure. It carried on raining. We were ready. Carol said ‘I’ll stay outside till you’re at the gate – if you get there’. ‘Good idea – one less unit of body weight,’ I said. Well, it was ‘no contest’, really. Harry pulled away, towing the little car, as if there’d never been a problem. I circled round the building, following some previous tracks, believing this to be the tarmac. Unfortunately, it was grass, and we chewed it up quite a bit, which I really regret, but it will recover. Out on to the road and up the hill (road cleared, snow-free). Oh – I picked Carol up first.

(It’s a pity we’ve no photos of any of this, nor of the location. If the weather hadn’t changed the snow scenery would have made lovely pictures; the campsite was high above the river Gartempe and the village, all Christmassy round its church, up above us. But it was dark when we arrived, and grey and wet the next morning, and of course, we needed that change in the weather, though a day’s delay wouldn’t have mattered.)

The short hop to Poitiers was uneventful – just wet – and it’s been raining ever since, almost non-stop. We’re back at ‘Futuriste’, but ‘Futuroscope’ is hardly visible. We’ve done some shopping and some washing and paid two visits to McDonald’s …. We’d read in a review of this site before coming that they have the best croissants for sale in the morning of anywhere, and they are good; in fact this is only one of two sites we’ve been on where bread, croissants and pains au chocolat have been available out of season, if ordered the day before. But one of the best features here is the showers! Firstly, the building is WARM, even hot if you find you’re right under the heaters, and the showers are PERFECT – fully adjustable, including height, removable head for hand-held use, infinite hot water and a variable jet giving a massage that could do you an injury if you aimed it at the wrong place! Dressing space not 100%, but after some of the places we’ve been …. (end of entry for Monday 6th December).

Thursday 9th December: On Tuesday, it was still raining, but we left ‘Futuriste’ and took Harry to ‘Antoine’s’. M. Antoine met us as we pulled up, long, thin package in hand. ‘C’est la votre’, he said, (This is yours) and immediately unwrapped Harry’s new ‘cheek’ and offered it up to check it was right. No problem. We left Harry in good hands and set off to find the place in the country where the Esperanto-speaking contact lives.

Well, in the country is right, but the welcome and the hospitality couldn’t have been warmer – though the caravan which serves as guest room could! (And it was still raining, and it rained all night!) We met Pierre, the Esperanto speaker (sort of), his Moroccan wife, Fatima, and two children Sami (5) and Nour (2). Little Nour really wasn’t well and had to see the doctor next morning. We also met Stephan, a family friend and Annette, a teacher of languages and Esperanto speaker who had been invited to join us for dinner …. what a dinner! A delicious ‘tangine de poissons’.

(The language possibilities round that table were fascinating. Everyone spoke French, of course, three could have used English (we 2 and Pierre), three used some Esperanto, two could have used Spanish (Annette and Carol), two could have used German (Annette and I), and  I suppose two could have used  Moroccan. Some Esperanto was used, but French dominated because it was the only option which didn’t cut anyone out! But even if Esperanto wasn’t being used for communication, it was Esperanto which had got us 2 nights’ hospitality, so, who’s to say it doesn’t work as a creator of international friendships?)

Next day – it was raining – all day – but we drove 200+ kms to visit VOUVRAY! My immediate family will know why the capitals. Vouvray is perhaps my overall favourite white wine, has been ever since I spent a month in Tours in 1971. We found a ‘Cave’, did some tasting, and came away with … a few bottles. Then we crossed the River and did the same in Montlouis. Discerning palates can tell which wine comes from the sunny side of the Loire (south facing) and which the other …. Back to the stone house in the country (and the caravan) and another lovely meal.

    Pierre and Fatima with Nour peeping over her shoulder (Doctor has diagnosed Bronchitis) and a bottle of sparkling Montlouis which we offered as aperitif.

                                                             Sami with Stephan.

Fatima with Nour and a huge, steaming dish of couscous.

During the night – it stopped raining! But we had heard dreadful weather reports from places which may have been in our line of travel, and when Pierre, a teacher, left in the morning he phoned back to say the roads were very slippery. However, as we left, there was a small break in the clouds …. We made our way – carefully – to Antoine’s. Again, he greeted us personally. ‘I’ll bring your van down for you’. And Harry appeared, with one amazingly white ‘cheek’ showing up the rest of his unwashed, travel-weary bodywork:

before:

and after:

what a cheek! 

M. Antoine – like many other French men we’ve met – was fascinated by the ‘A’ frame to connect van & car – he even produced official documentation appearing to show that towing like that is illegal in France!, but we connected anyway and drove away happy – not least because the TOTAL cost of the repair had been €367 (£312), whereas the quote we had had in England was £550!

At Chatellerault we stopped to shop and treated ourselves to a lunch at ‘Buffalo Grill’, a new eating experience, though not really a French one. Very nice, though.

We travelled on, scenery snowy, but not interfering with us, in fact we had that sunshine again which had followed our travels (but not our ‘leisure’ days) since leaving Prades. We crossed  the Loire (again) in Tours, using a little bit of toll road to make it easier:

We had been completely unable to find an open campsite anywhere along or near the route, so the only option seem to be to re-join the motorway (toll) and head for a service area. Carol managed some photos of the sunset while we were still moving:

but then, about 20 minutes before we were due to stop we ran into a rare occurrence on French motorways, a ‘bouchon’, that is, a traffic jam (NOT a ‘confiture de circulation’!), and those 20 minutes took at least 40, much of it uphill at walking pace, which Harry did NOT like! Still, we made it into the ‘Aire’ near Le Mans and settled down amongst the lorries for the night – but only after struggling (again) to free Sally’s brakes which were jammed on – is that why Harry objected to the 40 minute crawl? Was he pulling a car with its brakes stuck on all the time? ….

Question: Why is this episode in green instead of the usual blue? Is there a reason, or was it just a whim?

How we brought the sunshine northwards and how Harry gave up on the ice.

….. fortunately when it didn’t matter too much.

For three days now we’ve travelled North in sunshine, occasionally losing it for ten minutes or so, and always thinking ‘there’s bad weather ahead’. Well, there may be, but we haven’t got to it yet.

Entry 25 ended with us parked ‘on the road’ at Nailloux,

which turned out to be a very pleasant, lakeside park, with a swimming pool, well worth a visit at a warmer time of year, but it was a very cold night, and the thought of moving on to where it’s even colder is very intimidating. If we were re-designing this van one change we would make would be to put the heater button where we could reach it from the bed! Getting up was hard! and there was a hint of rain in the air, but before we were ready to move off (11.30) clouds were thinning and breaking and the sun was coming through. After about an hour and a half we found a hypermarché with a cafeteria, so we decided to have a hot lunch and a light supper. But this took time, so our distance travelled before dark was a pathetic 139 kms! Never mind, this brought us to Cayreich, just north of Montauban, where a very nice site owner came out to greet us and showed us where to park with the vehicles still coupled. There was Wi-fi, but only in reception, which was unheated – that’s when I e-mailed you all. An interesting pre-Christmas punch of Crème de Cassis, boiling water, vodka, cloves and a cinnamon stick thawed me out back at the van, before our supper of soup and a poached egg. Then for the first time we left the heating on (lowest setting) all night. It made a difference. Interior temperature at 6.45am was 9.5! Outside was well below zero.

The morning (Sat 4th), bright and fine, but freezing, presented us with an interesting choice and challenge. We needed to let the ‘grey water’ go and there was a disposal point close the van; but the manoeuvre to get over it was going to be somewhere between difficult and impossible with the vehicles connected. Having taken pains NOT to disconnect overnight what were we to do? We unhooked the towbar and the electrics from Harry, but left every else attached to the car. We backed over the drain and let the water go. Then to avoid a further complication of a very tight U-turn when re-coupled, this pair of old dogs tried a new trick. We ‘walked’ the car round in a circle, Carol driving it very slowly and me holding the A-frame off the ground. We managed.

On the road at 10.30! Re-joined the main road where we’d left it and travelled on towards Brive. We stopped for ‘twelvesies’ in a lay-by with snow beside and around us:

  and from then on the surroundings were increasingly snowy and the villages Christmas-cardy. Just south of Brive we joined that section of toll-free motorway which we had used on the way south (and spent the night beside). This time we prepared (unusually) a hot lunch in one of those excellent lay-bys for which French motorways are well known.

     

        

    

At Limoges we left the motorway to go to a Carrefour supermarket we could see. It was horrendously busy and parking was very difficult – impossible within the bays. There were piles of snow about a metre high at regular intervals – obviously folk who hadn’t shopped for days were out taking advantage of the safer roads and the sunshine. After a respectable 278 kms we were heading for the village of Chateauponsac. A nice lady on the phone had said we could park ‘on the road’ or ‘round the back of the toilet block’. OK. It was dark, but Satnav worked this time (as she had done in Toulouse the day before – I missed that bit!) and we turned into the site onto about six inches of snow. Obvious where the intended parking spot was, round to the right. Then Harry went into a slide, nothing spectacular, just a little slip and only a slight up hill, but once stopped, he was NOT going again – not with Little Madam hanging on to his back end! (‘What do you think this is? Dancing on ice?’) I had to get out and ‘investigate the facilities’ – everything there and beautifully clean. We were about to start uncoupling, which seemed the only option, when I realised (Oh, no!) there was a car behind. Anxiety soon relieved, however: ‘Bonjour, Monsieur-Dame. Je suis Valerie.’ It was the nice lady on the phone. Don’t worry! – There’s no-one else here, if anyone else comes, they can go the other way round. If you’re all right about it, you can stay just there – will your cable reach the nearest hook-up point? (Yes) Be careful if you get out, though – it’s icy just under your door. Then she showed us a second all-in-one shower room. ‘This one is heated – it’s for the gites, but there’s no-one there’. She unlocked the office and took payment of €14.50, gave us lots of literature (the site is also the tourist centre), stayed long enough to be sure the cable connected and we were OK. ‘If you have any problem, just call – same number you used before, it diverts to my mobile. And in the morning, take your time, the ice may melt, or if you need help – call me.’          Most people are nice – except French drivers; I might go on about them sometime! 

Footnote: Now here’s a question: Why would anyone take a spaghetti server into the shower with them and leave it there, by accident or intent?

But that is what we found at Nailloux! (Where, as seems normal at this time of year, only one section of the ‘sanitaires’ is open. There it was the ladies. Last night it was the gents!) Now, we don’t know the answer to this question, we just know what use I put it to. Answers (decent ones!) on the blog, please. Lateral thinking!