PUIVERT SNIPPETS

 

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Eleven steps – two lizards. Lizards are common round here. We’ll probably see them basking in the sun halfway up the walls at home. The other day I spotted two as I went up the steps. Well, two on the way up an one on the way down, so there may have been three, but I think the one on the way down was one of the ones from the way up, which makes two…. If you see what I mean. The keen-eyed have also spotted glow-worms under the steps, and under the hedge near Harry. 

 

I haven’t seen them! 

 

Well, you wouldn’t …. Did you know, a glow-worm is really a beetle, and only females glow – to attract passing males in flight? Then once they’ve mated they turn off their light, lay their eggs and die. 

 

C’est triste, ça! 

Yes, but isn’t Wikipaedia wonderful !

 

We’ve been up to the castle. We cheated and went as far as we could by car (I’ve got a leg that wont work properly all the time – Rachel & Sean might remember a bit of a problem last time we walked in the Lake District – I’ve even had a session with an osteopath, which has helped a bit, I think.) 

It was very hard and bumpy – 

What, my leg? 

Mais, non! (Imbécile) The drive up to the castle. Good view, though. 

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Yes, and we learnt about Troubadours and how the lake used to be much bigger, and the legend of the White Lady ….

 

Several days a week I go into the village by bike to get the bread: 

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Carol comes too, now, sometimes. One day we’ll  go for a longer ride. Quand il fera moins chaud ! (When it’s less hot !) One day a bit back the notice board showed the air temperature to be 29˚ and the water (of the lake) 26. But that was when the lifeguard came on duty at 12.30. Both get warmer through the afternoon. 

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A young couple camped on one of the pitches in our square a bit back, and he got a guitar out. I went over and suggested we should see what we could do together. We had a really cool session! Then another one with drinks after dark. They live not very far away, and one day this week they came for a day by the lake, but called to say ‘bonjour’ and brought a friend with a little girl with them. That was really nice! They were here again this weekend and we shared some more music and a meal.

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Google this: Fontestorbes and go to which ever site(s) take your fancy. We’d read about this intermittent spring, but when we were there, we didn’t realise that’s where we were, because we were on our way to somewhere else! On the way back we had other priorities, so we didn’t stay to see the sudden surge in the flow. It’s one to go back to. Certainly a remarkable phenomenon.

 

My little Esperanto flag flutters bravely by Harry’s bike-rack. 

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It’s instigated a number of conversations about Esperanto, but (so far) none in Esperanto.

 

Ĝis la!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SALLY GETS TO THE MED, CAROL GETS A TRAIN RIDE, AND HARRY FETCHES A BIRTHDAY PRESENT.

 

 

One day last week – and we’ve no idea which day! – we went birthday-present shopping in the little red car – 

C’est moi! Oui, on est allé – sorry – we went to Rivesaltes near Perpignan –

It’s where the airport is, in fact. 

Don’t interrupt!

You do! 

Mmm … quelquefois, peut-être. We went to this big bicycle shop which HE’d found out about on the internet, where they sell electrically assisted bikes. (The one THEY bought for Carol at the motorhome exhibition in Manchester turned out to be rubbish and the company has gone out of business, so no money back.) After a while they chose one and reserved it, but I couldn’t bring it back to Puivert so that had to wait. Then we went down to Le Barcarès and I had a good view of the sea while THEY went and swam in it and lay on the sand. 

Funny swimming – it was salty, and there were even little waves! Don’t get those at Puivert! 

Then after a little drive we parked again and THEY had a meal at a very nice – 

But busy! 

– little restaurant or ‘Crêperie’ beside the harbour. It was so late by the time THEY finished that there was no way I could get back ‘home’ before 10 o’clock when they shut the big gate at the campsite. THEY may call me ‘little’ but I can’t get through the pedestrian gate, so I had to stay outside for the night. It was OK; no-one bothered me and HE came for me quite early in the morning. 

Sorry, no photos of that day – I think we left cameras behind! Plenty to come, though. 

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Monday, 13th August. (CLT 70). The chosen treat for the day was to ride the Red Train, doing the part of the line to include viaducts and tunnels.

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The first part of the ride took us through the forest from Axat to the first level crossing on the road we’ve driven so often down the valley of the Boulzane to St. Paul de Fenouillet.

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We’ve picnicked in that lay-by.

Then we followed that road, cris-crossing it by bridges and crossings as far as St. Paul. The train made photo-stops on the viaducts and one in particular gave us a splendid view of the ‘Cathar’ castle of Puylaurens. 

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The ride was commented, effectively and well amplified, so we learnt, among other things, that ‘Fenouilledes’ means ‘Hay Country’ and although the area is now mainly devoted to to producing the ‘Agly’ wines, there are still hayfields among the vineyards.

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Back at Axat, we drove on up the valley of  the Aude through the Gorge de St. Georges, which we hadn’t done before. 

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Then back to Quillan where we were going to have dinner at Café de la Fleuve, but there was a deafening pop group playing in the square and the restaurant was very busy, so we went round to the ‘Galerie’ instead. This is where we had the first evening meal with the ‘Place in the Sun’ team. 

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However, we braved the noise to go and have coffee at Mike’s after the meal. Again, Little Car had to stay outside the gate overnight, but she didn’t mind, in the interest of Carol having a happy birthday – did you? 

Non. 

Thought so. 

My turn! I hadn’t moved for a month, but on Tuesday I got to go out! All the way down to Perpignan, mostly on familiar roads and following the railway line. We parked outside a motorhome dealer’s which was closed for lunch, so THEY had lunch while waiting. When the place re-opened, it was a bit disappointing because we were hoping to get an estimate for the repair to my rear light cluster, but they didn’t do bodywork. Perhaps we’ll go back to that nice M. Antoine in Poitiers. Still, THEY got me a new shower head to replace the one that got damaged by ice two years ago! (We’ve had a couple of not-quite-right replacements in the meantime.)

Then we went to the bike shop in Rivesaltes and after a bit of a wait Carol’s new bike was placed on my bike rack and we set off back. 

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Next morning THEY went into the village together by bike to get the bread. 

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IACTA EST ALEA

IACTA EST ALEA ….. 

As the bard said – 

No, he didn’t! 

Who did, then? 

Julius Caesar. 

Who asked you, anyway? And when did you wake up – I thought you were hibernating. 

Gar nicht! Ich habe schon alles gehört. 

Oh, dear …. 

Macht nichts … 

De quoi s’agit-il ? What are you all on about ? What is this ALEA and who IACTA-d it? 

It means ‘the die is cast’ – 

And Julius Caesar said it when he crossed the Rubicon. 

Did what? 

Never mind! It just means we’ve taken an irreversible step – you were there, little one! – Parked outside, anyway. 

Ah, Ça alors! Tell everyone ! 

 I was doing till you two started …. Never mind! Friday 3rd August was a big day – 

Not for me! I never moved. 

For all of us! We went to the lawyer’s office and signed the compromis de vente – that’s a bit like exchanging contracts in the UK, but an entirely different procedure. Everyone is there – buyer, seller, agent, lawyer (or in this case lawyer’s clerc, his brother) and the lawyer goes through the contract page by page, which is then initialled or signed page by page and some declarations copied out by hand before signing. Very thorough, very time consuming, especially if some paragraphs have to be repeated in English so that foreign purchasers (us) can fully understand what they are signing. 

Afterwards we went down to Quillan – there was a bit more business that we needed the agent’s help with, to do with the French bank account, – and then we went to that restaurant on the square where the patron had introduced us to Nathalie, the agent who did find the ‘right’ house in the end. He was delighted with the news and gave us each a free glass of Blanquette (bubbles!) as an appéritif. As I said before, it’s good buying houses round here!

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Less good is trying to get a driving licence! Carol’s UK licence expires next week (x0th birthday, you know!) and we can’t renew it in the UK because we don’t have an address, we’re not UK residents. But we can’t have a French one till we can prove that we’ve been resident in France for six months! So far, we’ve not found a way round this.  

Meanwhile, we’ve had another terrific thunderstorm – an all night jobbie, hammering on Harry’s roof – 

Tell me about it! 

But otherwise days merge into each other with shopping trips, picnics, and swims in the lake. Going through Chalabre and on past the house, the next village – the first in Ariège – is a delightful little spot called Camon, with a lovely village shop, a bar-café and this magnificent former railway viaduct across the Hers with a lovely picnic spot beneath. The only drawback is that bathing is not allowed because of the unpredictability of release of water from the lake (Montbel), which produces a little electricity , causing sudden changes in depth and flow. 

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Today we have been very pleased to receive a visit from Gwyneth and Barrie from Sournia, whose house we visited a bit back. (See post dated July 223rd.) We prepared a seafood platter and salad for lunch, which Carol followed with pancakes for dessert, then Barrie drove us all out past the house and on to Camon, before we all jumped in the lake on return.

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Carol and I then had supper at the café at the gate …..which was quite busy tonight, not as on the photo. 

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Just to clarify for those unfamiliar with French procedures: having signed the compromis, we have seven days (from last Friday) to withdraw from the sale, should we wish to, whereas the vendors may not withdraw. We’ve no intention of withdrawing – as we say at the top, joking aside, iacta est alea. 

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THE ELEVEN STEPS ……

Update September 2025: The photos which were part of this post have disappeared! Sometimes when this has happened, I’ve been able to find and reinstate them, but not this time!

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The café at the entrance to the campsite, where, until now, I’ve had to go to get the wifi. That hasn’t been much of a problem – it’s not far away and usually quite pleasant, though sometimes difficult to see the computer screen even under one of the parasols. The main irritant has been that very often the battery on the computer has run out before I’ve finished what I’m doing, especially if I’m posting a blog entry. Then there’s not having Radio 4 in the van in the mornings …! So yesterday I bought a ‘Domino’ – a gadget that gives me wifi anywhere – I don’t have to be connected to it, I just have to be near it. It’s a pay-as-you-go arrangement after the first month, so I can use it as needed, not when at home once we have a broadband connection.

Anyway …. 

The Eleven Steps

Hmmm …. ‘The Eleven Steps’ … could be a book title. Or maybe 29? ‘The Twenty-nine Steps’ …. Or 39? ‘The Thirty-nine Steps’ That has the ring of a best-seller about it …..

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The shortest, though not the only, way from Harry’s home to the multi-purpose, all-in-one, unisex shower / toilet / wash-up and laundry block is via these eleven steps. So for now at least “I’m going up the steps” (possibly follwed by “I may be some time”) is the current euphemism for …. I’m going round the corner, or … to the little room, or …. whatever else …. Use your imagination.

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There was an incident on the steps yesterday ….

When Carol tripped and nearly broke her nose back at Alet a few weeks ago, I’m afraid I was not first on the scene. That gold medal went to young, handsome, fit Richard (the bounder; he must have been a bounder – he was there in one bound!), from the tent just below our pitch. However, yesterday when a little girl, five years old maybe, tripped on the steps and cut her knee – a bit; not as much blood as Carol managed! – I was first there! In fact, for a while, I was the only person there, having just come down the steps myself. So what was I to do? Follow any dad or grandad’s instinct and go and pick her up, tell her it was alright and we’d go and find Mummy, or be afraid of recriminations and accusations of child molesting, or whatever? Of course I took the former option. The little girl had stayed on the step where she had fallen, but her loo roll had made off like it was in an Andrex advert, taking in several steps in its bid for freedom! So I had to pick that up as well. Now, I’ve no idea whether the little one understood anything I said – I was an Englishman speaking French and she turned out to be Dutch, but she replied to “Où est ta tente ou ton car?” with an aproppriate gesture and we went there, with the loo roll trailing behind us. By now that mother’s insticnt (which leaves us amazed, though it shouldn’t – sheep do it all the time!,) by which a Mum can recognise her own child’s crying from some distance away, had kicked in, and Mum and sisters were running up from the games area near the café. 

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There were no objections to what I’d done, just lots of ‘merci’ from all of them, and the sisters seemed slightly amused by my ongoing attempts to wind in the loo roll, a task which they took over …

I have to say, I enjoy being smiled at and greeted by people of all ages, nationalities and both sexes. ‘Don’t talk to strangers’ doesn’t seem to apply. Is ‘stranger danger’ exaggerated in the UK? After all, most abuse takes place within the family, or extended family. Or are children who smile and say ‘bonjour’ to a funny, fat, old foreigner not being adequately warned of the dangers? Discuss, if you want. Or not, if you don’t.

We watched the opening ceremony – all of it, thru to ‘Hey Jude’ on French television, in a thunderstom! During the night the rain turned to hail which tore up our parasol! Eagle-eyed readers may like to play ‘spot the difference’ between this photo and previous ones: 

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As for the Olympic opening, general opinion here, as far as we can tell, is very impressed with the show, though maybe sections of it were a bit long, and we didn’t appreciate how the Arctic Monkeys fitted in! Anyway – Wiggins is winning once more! 

We’ve visted Mirepoix, which is the nearest big town to the house. The centre is very old with a square of arcades and lots of cafés and gift shops.

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There’s also a good supermarket. 

We’ve jumped in the lake quite frequently, but haven’t ‘pushed the boat out’ on Montbel yet. We were going to on the 31st, but it was a very fine, hot, day and by the time we got there finding a parking space at the beachy bit was impossible, so we came back und swam in ‘our’ lake instead. 

Yesterday evening we had English Fish et Chips at the market just outside the campsite, enhanced by an almost full moon.

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We sat next to some French people (local, but from Alsace) who took an interest in us. We were drinking white wine from a 500cl mineral water bottle, at the sight of which the man next to me said (in French), thinking it was water, ‘You shouldn’t drink that, you should drink wine!’ – ‘It is wine’ – ‘What?’ He picked up the bottle and took the top off. He didn’t actually drink any, but he had a good sniff, and realising it was wine he said ‘petit voyou!’ (You little rascal!). So in the space of three weeks I’ve been called a ‘rosbif’ and a ‘petit voyou’! All in good spirit, of course. 

Thanks to David S. and Chris T. For help in saving the photos (sample below) and to Meg for assistance with the inevitable paperchase in which French bureaucracy is threatening to overwhelm us! 

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