It’s good is buying houses round here! We should do it more often. Most readers know of the local product – a sort of slightly fizzy, colourless drink called Blanquette de Limoux. (Google it or go straight to its website – you might end up buying some; Rachel did!) Well, on Tuesday morning we had one bottle of Blanquette on our winebar. By the evening, we’d bought a house (sort of), drank a bottle of blanquette and we had two bottles of blanquette on the wine bar. (You might need to read that again!) By midday Wednesday we had an extra bottle of local red as well (which we hadn’t bought).
Better explain! We re-visited the house in the morning, with the agent who picked us up here at the campsite to save us going down into Quillan. We measured some rooms and walls (we can’t think in square metres, we need length and breadth in feet!), asked lots of questions and forgot to take photographs. We came away to talk about it over lunch and phoned Nathalie (agent) to make the offer. She negociated for us and got the ride-on mower, the big ‘american’ fridge and the dishwasher into the price we wanted to pay and a deal was agreed.
I went to the little café at the site entrance and said ‘We’ve just bought a house’, then, a bit tentatively, ‘do you happen to have a bottle of Blanquette already chilled?’ ‘Of course’, said Sophie, ‘c’est indispensable – en Aude. Which one do you want?’ Then she refused payment, as the site’s contribution to our celebration. Next, Nathalie’s boss, Marie, came round with the ‘offre d’achat’ for us to sign, and brought with her – a bottle of blanquette. But she wouldn’t have any herself because she was still working and driving. We shared the chilled one with ‘neighbours’ from Normandy and so ended up with two bottles on the shelf, instead of one, having drunk one. Simples! The neighbours were leaving next day and before they went the gave us a bottle of Fitou.
Wednesday 25th was a big day – or evening – here in Puivert. There had been no local celebration of the Fête Nationale on the 14th, and this was the substitute. About 200 people gathered here on the campsite, on the pitches with the most open view of the lake, for a communal meal.
Not just residents on site – there probably aren’t that many, but locals and some who had travelled from further away. The meal was a splendid 3-course do – 4 if you count the apéritif with nibbles and pâtés and drinks as alcohlic as you wanted to make them. Then a starter of duck liver pâté:
Followed by a daube de boeuf, tarte aux fruits and coffee. During the meal, there seemeed to be an endless supply of red and rosé wine, which no doubt contributed to the general conviviality.
The sun had gone down, with the last rays shining onto the castle, not behind it:
So now it was fireworks time. Well, what a display! All reflected in the lake, of course. Here are a few pictures, but I’ll put an album on Sky Drive and the best way to see them would be as a cross-fading slide show, if you can do that, with music, of course, as we saw them in the first place.
We just can’t imagine anything like this event in England. Jeannine, Sophie’s no 1 helper, had taken trouble to do a seating plan and place us (the only English) where she thought there would be a good atmosphere. She got that right, too, people were very friendly – including the man who will be our refuse collector! He teased us with some local dialect, but others were quick to translate.
But the evening didn’t end with the fireworks! There’s an evening market just outside the site every Wednesday, and this week that was ‘enhanced’ by the disco which continued till sometime after 12, but no problem to us.
When I thanked Sophie and Jeannine for the evening (or for their work) next morning, they both took the line that we were to be thanked for being there (!) and Jeannine was very anxious to know that we had been happy with the placing at table.
We’re starting to unwind and relax now, and consider ourselves ‘on holiday’. We’ve had a swim in the lake the last three days – just as well it’s there, because temperatures have soared. Even at 7 pm yesterday evening (Thursday) when we went shopping it was still 33° in the town (Lavelanet).
Unfortunately, the lawyer whom everyone (except the original agent) has recommended to us is on holiday till August 6th, but we’re told there’s still a reasonable hope that we may take possession of the house at Sonnac by mid September. Here’s another little picture: (anyone know how to make them bigger?)


































































